Pamporovo Resort Winter 2011/2012

The Rhodopi mountain conceals many secrets. This fabulous and mythical mountain is a real challenge to modern Bulgarian archeologists and historians. Many of the settlements here are over three thousand years old and they are located on its steep slopes. Gela village is one of the most ancient settlements in the Western Rhodopi mountain. You will see in it many remains from the Paleolithic era. The village existed yet during the time of Orpheus (XIII century B.C.). Many historical findings prove that the cult of Dionysos originated in the area around it, which cult was later so much liked by ancient Greek people, that they declared it to be their own and later ancient Greek theater originated from it. The modern mummers’ holidays, which are celebrated every year in the beginning of March in Shiroka luka, are a real proof of authenticity and they are also a historical reference to the beginning of dramatic art.

The oldest chroniclers, historians and writers in ancient Greece have left enough historical evidence, which confirm the authenticity of the abovementioned facts. Pisistrat, Eschil, Euripides, Herodotus and Strabon also deal with these issues.

During the archeological excavations near the chapel “Saint Iliya” in Gela village, archeologists discovered group funeral of over 20 Thracian people-most probably it was the ritual funeral of an important local leader. The necropolis near the village has been used for more than one thousand years-till the invasion of Roman people. Archeologists have found ceramic dishes, adornments and amber beads in the graves, which are real proofs for the cultural ties of the local population with distant countries and nations. The finding of a ring, decorated with a small plate, depicting a dolphin is of great importance, as for this reason we can make an association with the famous sanctuary Delphi in ancient Greece. Exactly this archeological finding is a serious reason for us to believe, that the mythical singer Orpheus was born in this region. Archeologists have discovered the remains of an ancient Roman road near Gela village in close proximity to the locality Lomut.
You can see everywhere in this region traces from Thracian people-the ancient inhabitants of the Rhodopin mountain. The festival Orpheus holidays has been taking place in Smolian town for years and its name is a blend of our memories about this fabulous person, who enthralled with his songs local people and of the folklore tradition of Rhodopi Bulgarians.

Every square meter of land here keeps the memory about Orpheus. The cult of Thracian people for this singer was so strong, that this cult has prevented them for a long time to become Christians. Their resistance was so powerful, that in order to win them over, the Christian world offered to them the first icon, depicting Orpheus. It was a vivid attempt to blend paganism and Christianity.

Local Thracian people were converted to Christianity, but it was a very difficult process, as we may say that it was imposed on them. This happened before Bulgaria’s conversion to Christianity.

During the period IV-VI century A.C., Gela village became an important Christian center. The remains of a whole monastery complex were preserved near the church “Holy Trinity”, not far from Ilinden meadows. Archeologists have found here the foundations of three churches and necropolises. During the archeological excavations made in year 1905, experts have found the foundations of a church, colored inside in blue, which is a historical document about the transition from paganism to Christianity and a remainder of Thracians’ cult for the sun. There are many legends and folk tales about the existence of the monastery, as one of the legends say that Bulgaria’s patriarch Evtimii has been exiled here.

There was a monastery “Constantine and Elena” near the chapel “Saint Iliya” in Gela village. Ottoman Turks set it on fire in year 1540. Bulgaria’s patriarch Evtimii was buried there. During year 1936, this grave was found during the construction of the Orthodox priest Simeon Garmashev’s house. Experts have found a gold crown and a part of a scepter (approximately 50 centimeters long) in this grave. The crown was given to the high-ranking Orthodox priest Stefan and the gold handle of the scepter was decorated with two snakes made of ivory. This proves that the grave belonged to a high-ranking Orthodox priest.

The fact that such an important person was buried here is clear evidence for the big importance of Gela village in our distant history. We must also mention that not by chance there is a locality nearby named Bishop’s forest.

Why do they say that Bulgaria’s patriarch Evtimii was buried here? History itself confirms it. After the capture of Veliko Turnovo by Ottoman troops, he was exiled to Bachkovo monastery. And he had nowhere to go from Bachkovo monastery. His final destination was the monastery in Gela village.

The chapel “saint Iliya” in Gela village is an interesting place to see. A village named Baya has existed in close proximity to it. Even nowadays, there is a stone tap as a remainder of it. Experts have found a stone slab with Thracian inscription near the chapel, which was deciphered by Nikola Gigov in year 2002. Nobody knows when exactly the chapel was built. The oldest man here-Ivan Kalaidjiev-who was over 90 years old before he died, said when he was alive, that the chapel existed also during the time of his parents, as well as during the time when his grandmother and grandfather were alive.

The chapel is located at a place, where many magnetic fields cross and when you go there, you feel relaxation. Several years ago, scientists from the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences made measurements there and established that there are two underground lakes 40 meters below the ground. There are two natural stadiums near the chapel-natural formations, as they can be likened to volcanic craters.
The summer residence of the high-ranking Orthodox priest Stefan was located near the chapel. There are 4 Thracian tombs in this area and there are also 7 Thracian tombs in the direction of Zaevite living district. They were built with stones in a circular form. The cave scientist Raichev from Chepelare town has made excavations and has discovered bronze adornments.

Group funerals took place in the tombs. Archeological findings from these places are kept at the museum in Chepelare town.

The old road, whose traces can be seen in this region, went from the old Filipopolis and run across Biala Cherkva, Persenk, Tumresh, Shiroka luka and from there led to Greece. This road was a prerequisite for the settlement of tribes in these areas.

There are many early churches and chapels in the whole region of the Western Rhodopi mountain-clear evidence for the powerful spread of Christianity. One of the biggest churches in the Rhodopi mountain is located in the famous village Smilian.

During year 1083, the Georgian brothers Grigorii and Abazii Bakuriani chose the Rhodopi mountain as a place suitable for the construction of the monastery “The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary” near Bachkovo village, which over the years became the biggest Christian center in the region.

The Western Rhodopi mountain was conquered by Ottoman Turks approximately one hundred years later in comparison with the other regions of our country. Important reasons for it were the mountain landscape, the big height above sea level, where you will see settlements, as well as the many guards on the roads. Bulgaria’s Patriarch Evtimii also came to live here for this reason.

The population of the villages Gela and Pergamun was slain in the locality named Kokalitsa (charnel house in English) as its name reminds of this bloody event. Nobody could escape. The bones of Gela and Pergamun villagers have remained there unburied for 3 years. Later on, Bulgarians from Aegean Thrace came to live here.

There was big Turkish military garrison in the area between the hut Ledenitsa, the cave Ledenitsa and Mugla village. During one of the battles here a sultan’s son was killed. His grief-stricken father brought here 18 mules, loaded with gold, so that the Golden mosque could be built in the area of the present-day village “Giovren” (near Trigradski rocks).

The Rhodopi mountain has preserved Bulgarian language in its purest form. It is clear evidence for the powerful spirit of the local population. The population of the villages Stoykite, Gela and Stikul was never converted to Islam after the big slaughter in Kokalitsa.

The name of Chakmonovo village is a vivid example for the power of Bulgarian spirit here. It comes from the Turkish phrase “chok iman”, which means strong believers. Obviously, the strong Christian belief of local people became the main reason for the extreme cruelty of Ottoman Turks in this region of our country. The grief and the thirst for liberty in the shadows of centuries-old spruces and pine trees resulted in the appearance of Bulgarian rebels (haiduti)-they tried to protect their family and honor and became popular avengers. The legendary Bulgarian rebel Captain Petko Voivoda is closely connected to these places. As a rebel commander, he organized his Bulgarian rebels in Shiroka luka village and he fought against Muslim gangs. The memory about him is alive even nowadays. The grateful inhabitants of the village have put a memorial slab in his honor at the house, where the famous Bulgarian patriot has lived. During year 2001, a monument to Captain Petko Voivoda was built.

Rhodopi people took part in the events after the Liberation of Bulgaria from Turkish rule and also in the subsequent wars. They actively participated in our modern history, because they have always been strong and adamant in spirit.